Day 14. Thursday, 17th April 2014. Ellemford to Cockburnspath. 14 miles. An extraordinarily early start from yet another first class B&B, and thanks to the landlord who drove me the 1 mile back to the SUW, saw me start the last lap at 7.40. A gentle uphill woodland walk alongside the river made a pleasant start. The path then descends to the river level at Abbey St. Bathans. Walking around and through several fields of sheep shows that lambing is now well under way. My arrival, each time being greeted with great disapproval by all concerned. Another up and down led me to the A1 which I crossed and then, almost immediately, the East Coast Main Line via a conveniently-placed bridge. At the top of a pleasant upward path through mixed woodland, I was given my first sighting of the North Sea, still some 3 miles away. The descent through a nature reserve was followed by field path to the cliff tops. The wind, which had been steadily increasing in speed, reached a crescendo. I managed to stay on terra firma to enjoy some good coastal scenery, marred, unfortunately, by rows and rows of caravans. A short inland stroll brought me to journey's end, Cockburnspath at 12.25. I caught the 12.44 bus to Edinburgh, arriving at 14.10. With time on my hands, I took an open-topped bus tour of the city followed by a visit to the Scottish National Gallery. The shuttle bus has transported me to the airport and dinner in the Wetherspoon's from which this report is being filed. Weather. Another dry day. Overcast at first with the sun putting in appearance as I reached the coast. Poll final. Two more definite Scots noes brings the final total to Ayes 4 Noos 14 Doon't Knooows 3 Knee Vootin' 3. I doubt the actual result will bear any resemblance to mine but it interesting asking the question.

Day 13. Wednesday, 16th April 2014. Lauder to Ellemford. 20 miles. Another early start ahead of a big day's walk. Left yet another excellent B&B at 8.30. Quickly re-joined the SUW and soon found myself in parkland of Thirlestane Castle. The usual uphill aspect of the early going found me crossing the Lammermuir Hills. A grand name for an upland featureless moorland. Tedium par excellence. The only good thing was the good condition of the path which enabled me to traverse this dull area as quickly as possible. Some small relief was the approach to the Watch Water reservoir. Beyond the ressie the path eventually lead to Longformacus, an attractive hamlet where some walkers stop for the night. I, however, continued on for a further 4 miles passing close to one of the smaller wind farms in the area. A pleasant riverside walk, off the SUW, brought me to tonight's riverside accommodation. I've just had a three course dinner and am now finishing a nice bottle of red. Just one shortish 13 mile day tomorrow will see me on the east coast and journey's end. Weather. In contrast to yesterday, today matched the terrain, dull. It was at least dry but overcast all day and quite chilly up on the moorland. Poll latest. Two more definite Scots no votes gives Ayes 4 Noos 12 Doon't Knooows 3 Knee Vootin' 3.

Day 12. Tuesday, 15th April 2014. Galashiels to Lauder. 14 miles.  Left Galashiels at 9.10 with waterproofs firmly stowed as the sun was beaming down. An easy up and down over 3 miles brought me to the busy A7, on the outskirts of Melrose, which I crossed to find the SUW had been diverted. Staying on the A7 for about an half a mile I crossed the River Tweed where notices on the bridge extolled the virtues of the Samaritans. The diverted path took me immediately down to the south bank of the river, which I followed for about two and an half glorious miles watching the occasional fisherman in the water flyfishing for Salmon. Didn't see any being caught though. Eventually I crossed the river again, this time by a chain suspension footbridge. Doubled back on myself on the north bank for about three quarters of mile at which point the path takes a 90 degree turn to the right and makes an almost dead straight beeline for Lauder. Although fairly steep at first, the gradient soon eases and I joined a track which was originally a Roman road, hence the syraigjtness. 'The going was easy and the scenery most enjoyable. It would seem that the area is getting less hilly as I get nearer to the North Sea. Good quality paths meant progress was, again, steady. I found a suitable rock on which to sit and have a late lunch which was followed by an easy descent into Lauder alongside a golf course Arrived in Lauder about 15.30. No sign of Estee or Sir Harry  though I suppose that's not surprising. Just 2 days to go. Weather. Almost unbroken warm sunshine throughout the day with the gentlest of breezes on the tops.

Day 11. Monday, 14th April 2014. Traquair to Galashiels. 13 miles. Update on last night at the Traquair Arms Hotel. Good food was washed down with 2 pints of Bear Ale from the Traquair House brewery. (no connection to the hotel of a similar name) The beer was 5% A.B.V. and is the weakest they brew. Others come in at 7.2% and 8%. That sounds like my kind of a brewery. The day couldn't have started better. After an excellent breakfast in a top quality B&B, the landlord offered me a lift back from Innerleithen to Traquair where I'd left the SUW yesterday, saving me an half hour walk on tarmac. Result. In bright sunshine and sans the waterproof trousers for the first time, I set off along an old drovers track which, apparently had previously been used by Edward I on one of his sorties north of the border and by Walter Scott's mum. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me. The track climbed gently upward, mostly on good grass to the top of minchmoor, passing as it did, the last tree plantation on the SUW, Hallelujah. Once out onto open moorland, there is a glorious ridge walk of about 3 miles with stunning views in all directions. At Three Brethen, three dirty great cairns, the path makes a right turn and descends down to meet the River Tweed on its journey to Berwick. I crossed the river by a fine stone-arched bridge and then began a climb, very steeply at first to eventually top Hog Hill. At the end of the first steep section, a conveniently- placed tree stump offered me a resting place from which to take lunch. Back to mid-day al fresco dining from now on I reckon. From the top of Hogs Hill, Galashiels came into view and an easy downhill route brought me to my destination for the night. The day's walking was done by 16.00. Weather. As forecast, today was dry with long periods of warm sunshine. Yesterday's wind was reduced to a gentle breeze on the tops so, overall, combined with the very acceptable footpaths, it conspired to make this the best day's walking thus far. Poll latest. With two very definite no votes from my Scots hosts we have Ayes 4 Noos 10 Doon't Knooows 3 Knee Vootin' 3

Day 10. Sunday, 13th April 2014. St. Mary's Loch to Traquair. 12 miles. Bade farewell to mine host at the Tibbie Shiels Inn and set off for a relatively short walk to Traquair. The first three miles provided a pleasant stroll beside the loch, the biggest of its kind in southern Scotland. At the head of the loch the path continues uphill over sheep-manicured short grass. Eventually, the inevitable conifer plantation was entered carrying a wide grassy path also uphill. Again, no windfall trees blocked the path and good steady progress was made. Further up the hill I emerged onto open sheep pasture. It was only then, out of the protection of the trees, did I appreciate how strongly the wind had got up. Richard and Tom will know what I mean when I call it a Swirl How experience. I had to contend with these conditions for about 3 miles over a ridge walk between 2 hills. Traquair came onto view as the path started its gradual descent, still on very good grass toward my destination. The final mile was along a quiet country road. All in all, a very pleasant Sunday stroll despite the wind. There being limited opportunity for accommodation and no chance of an evening meal in Traquair, I walked a further 1.5 miles off the way to the small town of Innerleithen where both requirements are in plentiful supply. Arrived at my B&B at 15.30 and took a late packed lunch in the comfortable surroundings of the Georgian guests' lounge. Tea and cake supplied by the landlady completed my repast. And I thought yesterday's bothy lunch was the height of luxury. I then watched Chelsea beat Swansea in the said lounge on a 40in t.v. I'm now off for dinner at The Traquair Arms Hotel which advertises "Real Ale - Real Food", should be good. Weather. Dry and cloudy to start. One quick shower then from 13.30 sunny intervals prevailed until I started the walk to Innerleithen when heavy rain ensured that I reached the digs soaking wet. Poll latest. Ayes 4 Noos 8 Doon't Knooows 3 Knee Vootin' 3_

Day 9. Saturday,12th April 2014. Beattock to St. Mary's Loch. 21 miles. Another challenging day, another early start. Rejoined the path which took me under the busy M74 and out into open country. Climbed a steep grassy hill (450 ft) then lost all that height over the otherside; frustrating. Soon entered yet another forest. This time the SUW stuck to the forest road which climbed inexorably for several miles. At least there were no fallen trees to negotiate. Met a walker doing the path, east to west. We both agreed that we'd seen no other serious walkers. Until then, I thought I'd got the whole thing to myself. Towards the end of the woodland, there appeared a bothy and as it was lunchtime, I availed myself of its facilities. No tree stumps, logs, rocks or stiles for me today. I had an upholstered wing chair for comfort. After lunch I had a six mile hike on a single track road in remarkably good condition. It was somewhat tedious but enabled me to make fast progess. At the end, yet another steep ascent started a pass across the hills which eventually led to St. Mary's Loch and the Tibbie Shiels Inn, the only accommodation for miles.  5 days to go and 74 miles. Learned of another superb victory for the tractor boys so celebratory supping is in progress. Weather. Rain started just as I set off and there were light showers throughout the day until 12.30 when it dried up for the day. Predominantly sunshine thereafter tempered with a strong, cold gusting wind. Poll latest. Ayes 3 Noos 8 Knee Vootin' 3 Doon't knooows 2

Day 8. Friday, 11th April 2014. Wanlockhead to Beattock. 21miles. Today's walk over 7 hills, one of which is the highest of the entire way, necessitated an early start. Breakfast at 7.30 and away soon after. Uphill was the order of the day from the off. Climbing Lowther Hill, the biggy, at 2378 ft, was the first objective. This was achieved with some ease due to the existence of a tarmac road used to service the radar station at its summit. Apparently, it used to look a golf ball until storms last November reduced its appearance to a standard dish. The golf ball material being spread, in small pieces over the surrounding hills. Three further hills were conquered on the open grassy upland before descending to cross the dam at the Daer reservoir. A large expanse of water supplying Lanarkshire with half its requirements. A steep climb up the next hill was punctuated by lunch break, again, sat on a stile. Continuing at high level to the next hill then descending to enter the ubiquitous forestry. Once again, the way was regularly blocked with wind fall trees. I'm getting increasingly frustrated with this problem. I've already emailed the one warden who covers the first half of the way and he says that the council are doing practically nothing about it. Disgraceful. Stumbled through the forest and eventually out onto tarmac for a 2.5 mile walk into Beattock. Having dinner in the bar of the inn where I'm staying where the locals constantly process outside to increase their risk of lung cancer and when inside seem to use the f word with unnecessary regularity. Weather. Dry to start, showers between 11.00 and 13.00 then dry, but cloudy, for the rest of the day. Quite a cold wind upstairs. Poll latest Ayes 3 Noos 8 Doon't Noos 2 Knee Vootin' 3

Day 7. Thursday, 10th April 2014. Sanquhar to Wanlockhead. 7miles. Today's walk is by far the shortest, made necessary by the availability of accommodation. I was in no hurry to get going so I visited the museum of Sanquhar and did some shopping prior to setting off at 11.20. The path rises quite steeply over 1,000 ft to open moorland on grassy sometimes muddy terrain then dips to the valley at Cogshead. Another sheepish climb took me on similar ground to the top of Glengebar Hill at 1,574 ft. Sat on a stile for lunch with good views of the surrounding hills then descended on good grass to the ex lead mining village of Wanlockhead, the highest village in Britain. Arrived too late to make full use of the mining museum but picked up some literature on the subject. With time to spare, I called in at the Wanlockhead Inn, the highest in Scotland, for refreshment. The real ale pump was temporarily out of use but the landlord told me that tomorrow it would be serving the very first of his micro brewery's ale. Just my luck to miss it. He wasn't quite sure what to call it but it would have the tag line 'ale with altitude' I returned to said pub for dinner, homemade chicken curry, where I was the only customer. Weather. Yet another dry day, again predominantly cloudy and a cool breeze upstairs. Poll latest. The landlord was a strong nationalist so Ayes 3 Noos 7 Doon't Noos 2 Knee vootin' 2

Day 6. Wednesday, 9th April 2014. Netherholm to Sanquhar. 14 miles. Enjoyed evening meal last night with the family and breakfast this morning. Set off at 9.30 and spent the next hour and a half walking back up hill to rejoin the SUW where I left it yesterday. , Black Hill then soon into yet more woodland. Oh dear. In one section, along a fire break, there were 5 instances where multiple conifers had been blown down and were completely blocking the trail. It is so annoying and frustrating having to work out major detours to get aroundnd these blockages. Come on you Scots. Get a grip and clear this National Trail of yours. The trunks would make great cabers for you to go and toss. Once out of the forrest, a very rewarding walk up and over a couple of minor hills brought me down into Sanquhar. Bought a paper in town to discover the Tractor Boys had given Huddersfield a 2 0 thrashing last night. That will call for an extra ale 'on the night' Weather. Guess what. No rain all day. It was mainly cloudy with some welcome, !warm sunny intervals. Windy again upstairs so still put my IT hat on. Poll update. Ayes 2 Noos 7 knee vootin' 2 Doon't knooows 2

Day 5. Tuesday, 8th April 2014. St. John's Town of Dalry to Netherholm. 14 miles. Before leaving the B&B this morning I 'phoned tonight's landlady for some advice as I would be splitting a 27 day walk in two by walking 3 miles off piste to her place. She said she was about to come to Dalry and could she pick up my bag. Result. She picked up most of my stuff leaving me with just my packed lunch to carry. Started walking at 9.30 in, yes, the rain. Just quick short light showers with sunshine in between. Walked out of Dalry up its steep main drag and soon onto open moorland. Although, squelchy in places, today's terrain was a vast improvement on previous days'. With high cloud and much blue sky, visibility today was excellent giving views of surrounding hills in all directions. Had lunch on a rock half way up Manquhill then proceeded to climb a pussycat of a hill, Benbrack, which at 1902 feet is the highest claimed, thusfar. Soon after leaving the summit I started the 3 mile detour to get to tonight's digs. I'm staying on a farm in what is like a luxury youth hostel and I'm the sole occupant. A great log-burning stove is roaring away in the lounge.meals are taken in the farmhouse with the family. Weather. Light short showers at first then it became dry with sunny periods for the rest of the day. Quite a cool strong westerly breeze on the tops. Needed to put my IT hat on.

Day 4. Monday, 7th April 2014. Bargrennan to St. John's Town of Dalry. 25 miles. An early start was necessary in order to complete this, the longest day of the trail. Again it was raining as I set off. The first few miles were on a soggy woodland path alongside the River Cree. Another track took me away from the river and into yet more forrest. A purpose-built cinder track enabled me get up a decent speed and when a forrest road was attained I was really 'motoring.' for the first time I was able to get some really good views of the surrounding hills and of the several lochs on the route. My main objective was the 25 miles and as it was still raiming I didn't linger. Had lunch. In the rain. Sitting on a large log. Good progress was made on tarmac until the sting in the tail for the day was a climb to the top of Waterside Hill before descending to Dalry to for the night. An exhausting walk finished at 18.05. Weather. Light drizzle persisted until 16.30 when the sun put in its daily appearance.

Day 3. Sunday, 6th April 2014. New Luce to Bargrennan. 18 miles. Left the "Nesbitts' local at 9.00 in pouring rain and returned to the SUW in 1.25 miles. Made good progress on tarmac for 4 miles despite inclement weather. Turned into woodland again where going was variable. Some on good forestry roads others on soggy paths through fire breaks. On four occasions the trail was completely blocked with dirty great fallen pine trees. Passage had to be negotiated over, under or around them. Most annoying and time-consuming. Tom, you need to get up here quick with your chain saw as it doesn't seem the locals are in a hurry to clear their National Trail. Had lunch on a tree stump and made better progress on more tarmac in the early afternoon. Path then left the woods for more open moorland and when, at 15.00, the sun put in an appearance. I was able to get my first views of the surrounding hills that the guide book had been banging on about. Finished the day at 17.00 passing a banner advertising a beer festival at the very pub I'm staying in but, just my luck, it doesn't start until the12th. Poll update. Ayes 1 Noos 5 don't knooows 1 knee vootin' 1

Mighty Scots Pines in the mist.

I know Scots have a reputation for being careful with their cash but a couple have just come in for a meal and they've only got one pair of specs between them. They're having to keep swapping the one pair back and forth so they can decide what they're going to eat. I think I've seen it all now and I suppose they have, but only one at a time.

Day 2. Stranraer to New Luce. 13 miles Started the walk at 9.30 in heavy rain. Similar terrain to yesterday but with today's rain the going was so much more sticky. Managed to get knee-deep into the mire on two occasions. After 6 miles, came to Castle Kennedy. Got a coffee takeout from the garage outside and looked for a seat to taken my elevens. No luck but got talking to yet another Englishman living north of the border. He likens Alex Salmond to Adolf Hitler. Much of the afternoon walk was in woodland. -Lots of "Mighty Scots Pine" in evidence. Not too many Larch as yet. Finished the walk at 15.45. Weather. Heavy rain until 11 then walked in low cloud followed by dry but overcast. Typing this report in the bar of the digs where upwards of ten locals are chatting. It's like listening to 10 Rab C Nesbitts. They're all going ay ay ay and they all live in hooooses. Latest on the referendum. Ayes 0 Noos 3 don't knooows 1 knee votin' 1.

The boggy bits

The Killantringan Lighthouse

My first waterfall of the walk. I do like 'em.

I found this notice board telling me about the walk so I thought I'd have a go.

Well here I go again. This time it's the Southern Upland Way, a coast to coast treck across Scotland from Portpatrick to Cockburnspath, some 212 miles.

Day 1, Portpatrick to Stranraer. 10 miles.
Caught 7.00 flight from Luton to Glasgow. (Thanks young Tom for the early morning lift) Took the 9.38 train to Stranraer then a local bus to Portpatrick. Arrived at lunchtime and Started the walk at 13.40. The first 2.5 miles were on the coast with delightful scenery marred, seriously, by the amount of disgusting detritus washed up on the small inlets. Turned inland at the Killantringan Lighthouse and made my way back to Stranraer over rolling hills and moorland. Much of the path was on tarmac lanes interspersed with sections over quite boggy terrain. Finished the day at 5.15. Weather. It got steadily better as the day progressed. Dreary drizzle in Glasgow, dry with low cloud in Portpatrick then ended with warm sunny periods in Stranraer.
I'm doing a straw poll of the people I meet as to how they will vote in the Scottish Independence Referendum. So far the result is YES 0 NO 1. The mancunian bloke in the cafe at Portpatrick.