Thursday, 17 April 2014

Day 14. Thursday, 17th April 2014. Ellemford to Cockburnspath. 14 miles.
An extraordinarily early start from yet another first class B&B, and thanks to the landlord who drove me the 1 mile back to the SUW, saw me start the last lap at 7.40. A gentle uphill woodland walk alongside the river made a pleasant start. The path then descends to the river level at Abbey St. Bathans. Walking around and through several fields of sheep shows that lambing is now well under way. My arrival, each time being greeted with great disapproval by all concerned. Another up and down led me to the A1 which I crossed and then, almost immediately, the East Coast Main Line via a conveniently-placed bridge. At the top of a pleasant upward path through mixed woodland, I was given my first sighting of the North Sea, still some 3 miles away. The descent through a nature reserve was followed by field path to the cliff tops. The wind, which had been steadily increasing in speed, reached a crescendo. I managed to stay on terra firma to enjoy some good coastal scenery, marred, unfortunately, by rows and rows of caravans. A short inland stroll brought me to journey's end, Cockburnspath at 12.25. I caught the 12.44 bus to Edinburgh, arriving at 14.10. With time on my hands, I took an open-topped bus tour of the city followed by a visit to the Scottish National Gallery. The shuttle bus has transported me to the airport and dinner in the Wetherspoon's from which this report is being filed.
Weather. Another dry day. Overcast at first with the sun putting in appearance as I reached the coast.
Poll final. Two more definite Scots noes brings the final total to
Ayes 4 Noos 14 Doon't Knooows 3 Knee Vootin' 3.
I doubt the actual result will bear any resemblance to mine but it interesting asking the question.

Wednesday, 16 April 2014

Day 13. Wednesday, 16th April 2014. Lauder to Ellemford. 20 miles.
Another early start ahead of a big day's walk. Left yet another excellent B&B at 8.30. Quickly re-joined the SUW and soon found myself in parkland of Thirlestane Castle. The usual uphill aspect of the early going found me crossing the Lammermuir Hills. A grand name for an upland featureless moorland. Tedium par excellence. The only good thing was the good condition of the path which enabled me to traverse this dull area as quickly as possible. Some small relief was the approach to the Watch Water reservoir. Beyond the ressie the path eventually lead to Longformacus, an attractive hamlet where some walkers stop for the night. I, however, continued on for a further 4 miles passing close to one of the smaller wind farms in the area. A pleasant riverside walk, off the SUW, brought me to tonight's riverside accommodation. I've just had a three course dinner and am now finishing a nice bottle of red. Just one shortish 13 mile day tomorrow will see me on the east coast and journey's end.
Weather. In contrast to yesterday, today matched the terrain, dull. It was at least dry but overcast all day and quite chilly up on the moorland.
Poll latest. Two more definite Scots no votes gives Ayes 4 Noos 12 Doon't Knooows 3 Knee Vootin' 3.

Tuesday, 15 April 2014



Day 12. Tuesday, 15th April 2014. Galashiels to Lauder. 14 miles. 
Left Galashiels at 9.10 with waterproofs firmly stowed as the sun was beaming down. An easy up and down over 3 miles brought me to the busy A7, on the outskirts of Melrose, which I crossed to find the SUW had been diverted. Staying on the A7 for about an half a mile I crossed the River Tweed where notices on the bridge extolled the virtues of the Samaritans. The diverted path took me immediately down to the south bank of the river, which I followed for about two and an half glorious miles watching the occasional fisherman in the water flyfishing for Salmon. Didn't see any being caught though. Eventually I crossed the river again, this time by a chain suspension footbridge. Doubled back on myself on the north bank for about three quarters of mile at which point the path takes a 90 degree turn to the right and makes an almost dead straight beeline for Lauder. Although fairly steep at first, the gradient soon eases and I joined a track which was originally a Roman road, hence the syraigjtness. 'The going was easy and the scenery most enjoyable. It would seem that the area is getting less hilly as I get nearer to the North Sea. Good quality paths meant progress was, again, steady. I found a suitable rock on which to sit and have a late lunch which was followed by an easy descent into Lauder alongside a golf course Arrived in Lauder about 15.30. No sign of Estee or Sir Harry  though I suppose that's not surprising. Just 2 days to go.
Weather. Almost unbroken warm sunshine throughout the day with the gentlest of breezes on the tops.

Monday, 14 April 2014

Day 11. Monday, 14th April 2014. Traquair to Galashiels. 13 miles.
Update on last night at the Traquair Arms Hotel. Good food was washed down with 2 pints of Bear Ale from the Traquair House brewery. (no connection to the hotel of a similar name) The beer was 5% A.B.V. and is the weakest they brew. Others come in at 7.2% and 8%. That sounds like my kind of a brewery.
The day couldn't have started better. After an excellent breakfast in a top quality B&B, the landlord offered me a lift back from Innerleithen to Traquair where I'd left the SUW yesterday, saving me an half hour walk on tarmac. Result.
In bright sunshine and sans the waterproof trousers for the first time, I set off along an old drovers track which, apparently had previously been used by Edward I on one of his sorties north of the border and by Walter Scott's mum. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me. The track climbed gently upward, mostly on good grass to the top of minchmoor, passing as it did, the last tree plantation on the SUW, Hallelujah. Once out onto open
moorland, there is a glorious ridge walk of about 3 miles with stunning views in all directions. At Three Brethen, three dirty great cairns, the path makes a right turn and descends down to meet the River Tweed on its journey to Berwick. I crossed the river by a fine stone-arched bridge and then began a climb, very steeply at first to eventually top Hog Hill. At the end of the first steep section, a conveniently- placed tree stump offered me a resting place from which to take lunch. Back to mid-day al fresco dining from now on I reckon. From the top of Hogs Hill, Galashiels came into view and an easy downhill route brought me to my destination for the night. The day's walking was done by 16.00.
Weather. As forecast, today was dry with long periods of warm sunshine. Yesterday's wind was reduced to a gentle breeze on the tops so, overall, combined with the very acceptable footpaths, it conspired to make this the best day's walking thus far.
Poll latest. With two very definite no votes from my Scots hosts we have Ayes 4 Noos 10 Doon't Knooows 3 Knee Vootin' 3

Sunday, 13 April 2014

Day 10. Sunday, 13th April 2014. St. Mary's Loch to Traquair. 12 miles.
Bade farewell to mine host at the Tibbie Shiels Inn and set off for a relatively short walk to Traquair. The first three miles provided a pleasant stroll beside the loch, the biggest of its kind in southern Scotland. At the head of the loch the path continues uphill over sheep-manicured short grass. Eventually, the inevitable conifer plantation was entered carrying a wide grassy path also uphill. Again, no windfall trees blocked the path and good steady progress was made. Further up the hill I emerged onto open sheep pasture. It was only then, out of the protection of the trees, did I appreciate how strongly the wind had got up. Richard and Tom will know what I mean when I call it a Swirl How experience. I had to contend with these conditions for about 3 miles over a ridge walk between 2 hills. Traquair came onto view as the path started its gradual descent, still on very good grass toward my destination. The final mile was along a quiet country road. All in all, a very pleasant Sunday stroll despite the wind.
There being limited opportunity for accommodation and no chance of an evening meal in Traquair, I walked a further 1.5 miles off the way to the small town of Innerleithen where both requirements are in plentiful supply. Arrived at my B&B at 15.30 and took a late packed lunch in the comfortable surroundings of the Georgian guests' lounge. Tea and cake supplied by the landlady completed my repast. And I thought yesterday's bothy lunch was the height of luxury. I then watched Chelsea beat Swansea in the said lounge on a 40in t.v. I'm now off for dinner at The Traquair Arms Hotel which advertises "Real Ale - Real Food", should be good.
Weather. Dry and cloudy to start. One quick shower then from 13.30 sunny intervals prevailed until I started the walk to Innerleithen when heavy rain ensured that I reached the digs soaking wet.
Poll latest. Ayes 4 Noos 8 Doon't Knooows 3 Knee Vootin' 3_

Saturday, 12 April 2014

Day 9. Saturday,12th April 2014. Beattock to St. Mary's Loch. 21 miles.
Another challenging day, another early start. Rejoined the path which took me under the busy M74 and out into open country. Climbed a steep grassy hill (450 ft) then lost all that height over the otherside; frustrating. Soon entered yet another forest. This time the SUW stuck to the forest road which climbed inexorably for several miles. At least there were no fallen trees to negotiate. Met a walker doing the path, east to west. We both agreed that we'd seen no other serious walkers. Until then, I thought I'd got the whole thing to myself. Towards the end of the woodland, there appeared a bothy and as it was lunchtime, I availed myself of its facilities. No tree stumps, logs, rocks or stiles for me today. I had an upholstered wing chair for comfort. After lunch I had a six mile hike on a single track road in remarkably good condition. It was somewhat tedious but enabled me to make fast progess. At the end, yet another steep ascent started a pass across the hills which eventually led to St. Mary's Loch and the Tibbie Shiels Inn, the only accommodation for miles. 
5 days to go and 74 miles.
Learned of another superb victory for the tractor boys so celebratory supping is in progress.
Weather. Rain started just as I set off and there were light showers throughout the day until 12.30 when it dried up for the day. Predominantly sunshine thereafter tempered with a strong, cold gusting wind.
Poll latest. Ayes 3 Noos 8 Knee Vootin' 3 Doon't knooows 2
Day 8. Friday, 11th April 2014. Wanlockhead to Beattock. 21miles.
Today's walk over 7 hills, one of which is the highest of the entire way, necessitated an early start. Breakfast at 7.30 and away soon after. Uphill was the order of the day from the off. Climbing Lowther Hill, the biggy, at 2378 ft, was the first objective. This was achieved with some ease due to the existence of a tarmac road used to service the radar station at its summit. Apparently, it used to look a golf ball until storms last November reduced its appearance to a standard dish. The golf ball material being spread, in small pieces over the surrounding hills. Three further hills were conquered on the open grassy upland before descending to cross the dam at the Daer reservoir. A large expanse of water supplying Lanarkshire with half its requirements. A steep climb up the next hill was punctuated by lunch break, again, sat on a stile. Continuing at high level to the next hill then descending to enter the ubiquitous forestry. Once again, the way was regularly blocked with wind fall trees. I'm getting increasingly frustrated with this problem. I've already emailed the one warden who covers the first half of the way and he says that the council are doing practically nothing about it. Disgraceful. Stumbled through the forest and eventually out onto tarmac for a 2.5 mile walk into Beattock. Having dinner in the bar of the inn where I'm staying where the locals constantly process outside to increase their risk of lung cancer and when inside seem to use the f word with unnecessary regularity.
Weather. Dry to start, showers between 11.00 and 13.00 then dry, but cloudy, for the rest of the day. Quite a cold wind upstairs.
Poll latest Ayes 3 Noos 8 Doon't Noos 2 Knee Vootin' 3